Buying a cricket bat well means understanding four things: size, grains, grade and care. Most guides cover the first and skip the rest and most of what's said about grains is a myth. The PlayerWalk bat guide covers all four honestly, so you can tell a genuinely good bat from an expensive looking one, and prepare it so it lasts.
Getting the size right
The most common and most damaging mistake in junior cricket is a bat that's too big. An oversized, heavy bat forces a young player to compensate, dropping the bottom hand, heaving rather than swinging, losing the ability to play straight and because technique formed young is hard to change, the wrong bat at ten can still be costing a player at fifteen. Match the bat to the player's height, and when in doubt, size down rather than up.
The sizing chart
| Size | Player Height | Typical Age |
|---|---|---|
| Size 1 | Up to 129 cm | 4–5 years |
| Size 2 | 129–137 cm | 6–7 years |
| Size 3 | 137–144 cm | 8–9 years |
| Size 4 | 144–150 cm | 9–10 years |
| Size 5 | 150–157 cm | 10–11 years |
| Size 6 | 157–165 cm | 11–13 years |
| Harrow | 165–173 cm | 12–14 years |
| Short Handle | 173–188 cm | Most adults |
| Long Handle | Above 188 cm | Tall adults |
The standing test
A quick check without the chart: stand the bat upright beside the player. The top of the handle should reach roughly the top of the thigh or hip. If it reaches the waist, the bat is too long.
What grains actually tell you?
Grains are the vertical lines running down the face of the bat, and each one is roughly a single year's growth ring of the willow tree. So the grain count is a rough guide to the willow's age and density but it is the single most misunderstood feature of a cricket bat. The widely believed idea that ‘more grains means a better bat’ is a myth: a well-pressed seven-grain bat can outperform a poorly made twelve-grain one. Power comes from willow density, pressing and craftsmanship. Grain count is only one clue, and it carries a real trade-off.
The grain trade-off
| Grain count | Willow | Performance & durability |
|---|---|---|
| 5–7 grains | Younger | Longer to knock in and open up, but the most durable — softer willow flexes rather than cracks. Best for juniors, beginners, and hot climates. |
| 8–12 grains | Mature | The 'sweet spot' — strong ping with a reasonable knock-in and a sensible lifespan. A good all-round choice for serious players. |
| 13+ grains | Very Old | Excellent ping almost immediately with minimal knock-in, but the least durable. For experienced players happy to replace bats more often. |
Straightness beats count
More important than the raw number is whether the grains are straight and evenly spaced. Straight grains indicate uniform willow that responds consistently across the face; wavy or uneven grains aren't necessarily weaker, but usually mean a lower grade. To count grains yourself, hold the bat face under natural light and count the visible lines from one edge to the other across the middle of the blade.
Understanding willow grades
Grade describes the quality and appearance of the willow, from Grade 1 (best) to Grade 4. It's related to grain count but separate from it. Grade 1 English willow has straight, even grains and a clean, near blemish-free face, it's what professionals covet and the most expensive. Grade 2 has mostly straight grains with minor blemishes and offers excellent value. Grade 3 shows more natural imperfections and wavier grains. The key insight: a well-crafted Grade 2 bat can outperform a prettier Grade 1, so don't pay for looks alone.
English vs Kashmir willow
English willow is lighter, whiter and more responsive, with better ping and fewer but cleaner grains almost all professional bats are made from it. Kashmir willow is harder, heavier and browner, often with more numerous, less even grains; it's far cheaper and more durable, making it a sensible choice for beginners, fitness cricket and hard tennis-ball cricket. On weight, the golden rule at every age is to pick the lightest bat you can swing fast with full control bat speed beats bat weight, and a light bat you control will out-hit a heavy one you don't. Pickup, how light the bat feels when lifted, matters as much as the number on the scale.
Knocking in a new bat
A new English willow bat is not ready to use out of the wrapper preparing it compresses the surface fibres so it performs well and, crucially, doesn't crack on the first hard ball. Lightly oil an unprepared bat with a few drops of raw linseed oil on the face, edges and toe (never the splice or labels) and leave it flat overnight; skip this for pre-oiled or anti-scuff-covered bats. Then knock the face all over with a bat mallet, building up force over several hours across a few days, spending extra time gently rounding the fragile edges and toe. Test with old, soft balls before facing a new hard ball, and protect the bat with an anti-scuff sheet and toe guard especially on abrasive Indian pitches. Note the link to grains: a high grain-count bat needs less knocking-in but is more fragile, while a low grain count bat needs more patience but lasts longer.
